We arrive in Split and check in to our apartment which is only 350m from the Old Town. It is on the first floor of a three storey apartment block built 100 years ago, and as we find out later it is the family home of the person renting it out. We head down to the Old Town, enter the Palace by the Golden Gate, past the statue of Gregorius of Nin (10th century bishop). We rub his big toe for luck, which is polished to a bright shine. I wasn't really sure what to expect inside the palace walls, although it was an intriguing mix of old and new all seemingly working together. Brand new shops selling sun glasses and cellphones, against the backdrop of Roman arches and stone walkways rubbed smooth by thousands of years of foot traffic. While the place is busy there is still a good feeling, and no one is bustling for space. There is even one footpath called "let me pass" as it is only wide enough for one person.
The Riva (promenade) is a buzz with restaurants, a great spot for people watching with a cold beer in the balmy 25 degC heat. We had dinner at a local restaurant (called "Tri Volta") recommended to us by our host. After 20 minutes of searching we almost gave up, although discovered it at changed its name! After dinner there is live music on the Riva, playing a good selection of well known songs, creating a festival atmosphere.
The next day we explore a bit more in the 3D maze that is the palace before heading up Marjan Hill for a view over the city. People live in the heart of the Palace as evident by the washing hanging out!We listened to a local group of men singing the traditional Klapa songs in the area known as the Vestible, before having dinner in a cute courtyard covered with grapevines.
The drive to Dubrovnik was planned to be around 2.5 hours, although we didn't realise we have to pass through Bosnia on the way, hence a couple of border crossings. Weird how Bosnia comes down to the coast for about 5km. Dubrovnik is smaller than Split, only about 30,000 people although it is way more touristy. We walk down to the Old City and marvel at the huge walls surrounding the town, which were built in the 14th/15th century. We walk down the Stadun (main street) before entering the War Photo Ltd gallery, hosting a series of images from 1991-1995 war, and also more recent ones from Ukraine. Well worth the 100Kuna entrance fee. I learn that Dubrovnik was under siege for a year from Serbian military wanting to occupy the Old Town, although they failed. As a consequence Dubrovnik and the Old Town were peppered with artillery fire and shells. Water and power supplies were cut for months although the people persevered. After lunch we walked around the walls. They are about 2km long and average 1.5m wide, so walking along the top is easy, although there are plenty of steps. Due to the bombing about half the roofs have been replaced, and the whole town appears fresh.
The next day we take a three island cruise. A fantastic day trip on the Adriatic, visiting Kolocep, Sipan, and Lopud islands. The water is crystal clear, and the BBQ lunch provided was delicious washed down with local wine and highly potent Grappa.
Swimming at Lopud we joined into a game of Picigin, where you try to keep a small sponge like ball out of the water. Great fun splashing around keeping cool diving for the ball.
Croatia is a land of contrasts, the coastline is rugged and dramatic surround by turquoise Adriatic Sea. The further inland you go the more trees there are, although in the most they cling to more rocky ground. The water is warm and clear, so a great spot to visit for a beach holiday or cruising the islands. Split was our favourite place overall, easy to navigate, amazing history and architecture, and people not "in your face".
Next stop Montenegro.
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